My family 1st moved to the North Shore above New Orleans when I was only 14, whereas I instantly fell in love with the local cuisine. I love fine food & soon learned I had the knack for creating it. Whenever I come across something I like, I'll try cooking it off & on until I figure out the right recipe for it. My bill of fare includes, Cajun, Italian, Chinese /Thai, Mexican & southern comfort food, all with a Creole influence. Though my bill of fare includes a wide ethnic variety, my menu is actually fairly small; but the dishes on it, are guaranteed to be amongst the best in their class that you'll find anywhere!

Friday, March 25, 2011

Roux or not to Roux, what was the question?

Who do roux?  If you can make milk gravy, then you can & have made a roux, it's that easy!
white                   blond
 caramel               dark
There are various grades & uses for roux; there's 4 basic grades "white, blond, brown & black." ( some say "light brown & dark brown ) Above are a fairly good representation of the colors when I make them.  I refer to them as "white, blond, caramel, & dark roux."  The only real difference in making the different colors, is how long you cook the flour & fat base.  Roux is a way of thickening, while controlling & enhancing the flavor as well as adding color.  Basically, roux is made buy cooking ( frying ) equal amounts of flour & fat ( butter, oil or meat drippings ) in our case, veg. oil., unless I state to use another.  Also, if I vary any roux color from above, I'll always associate the color with something like ( tan like a chocolate chip cookie, caramel, or milk chocolate.)  It's usually best to make more than you think you'll actually need, just in case.  If you use as much roux as I do, you can make large batches once a week or so, refrigerate & use as needed.  When you cook the flour this way, you get rid of that pasty raw flour taste & give it a nutty flavor, which enhances as it gets darker.  When to add the roux, depends on various things like, the recipe', cooking technique &/or proteins being used.  A lot of recipe's start with the roux 1st, using butter or oil, then the "Holy Trinity" ( celery, onion, bell pepper ) Usually, fried & roasted protein recipe's, make the roux using the meat drippings after it's done. "example, Chicken fried steak & white 'peppercorn' gravy."  This technique is the easiest; after the protein is cooked (chicken, turkey, steaks, bacon...) just add an equal amount of flour to the meat drippings & cook until you have the proper color roux for the dish.  For a white peppercorn gravy,  thro a few cracked corns in with the flour & cook until blond, let cool a few min.s, add a little salt, & temper in a little cream, then slowly the milk & cook till thickened.
As for my Gumbo, we're adding a ^ modestly dark roux ^ after the trinity & spices, shortly before the protein.  As you can see above, it's a little darker than caramel, but lighter than milk chocolate.   Also, don't let it get hot enough to smoke, making roux over medium-mhigh heat & slower is better, & take into account that you are getting the mix REALLY hot & should pull it off the heat just a little lighter in color than what your wanting, for it will continue to cook a little while & get darker. ( it's best to continue to stir for few min.s after wards.)
 Last, if you make a large batch for a week or 2 supply, let it cool & you'll notice the flour settles to the bottom ( into thick paste ) leaving the oil on top. I drain off the "clearer" excess & mix the rest back up & store in old margarine tub/frig.  For later use, add necessary amount of roux to drippings, or put in glass bowl with a cup of water & heat in microwave to about 200 deg. F, mix well, then use after trinity. 
That being said, below is an instructional video of a Chef showing how to make a roux; you should watch him, he did a good job explaining & showing how easy it is!

Good Luck! &
Enjoy, Todd

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